Like the buried pot of stolen gold in Finian’s Rainbow, briskets of corned beef seem to have mythically multiplied and have magically appeared in grocery stores everywhere. This otherwise barely stocked item is suddenly mounded in almost every end cap in meat departments, and there seems to be a mad dash by everyone to get some of the treasure before it disappears.  Alas, St Patrick’s day must be just around the corner.

This phenomenon has always amused me, especially since corned beef is actually not an Irish National dish, and it’s connection to St. Patrick’s day is specifically only part of the Irish-American culture.  But I too will go along and pick up a couple of these beauties before they vanish, they freeze exceptionally well, and this is the only time of year a sale sign ever casts its shadow on this cut of meat.  I wonder what it means if a Leprechaun sees a shadow on a corned beef?  Probably just that it’s almost St. Patrick’s day.

Choosing a cut

Brisket is a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of beef or veal, and is one of the nine prime cuts.  The brisket muscles include the superficial and deep pectorals. Since cattle do not have collar bones, these muscles support about 60% of the body weight of the animal, which develops a significant amount of connective tissue.  Because of this, the resulting meat must be cooked correctly to tenderize it.  Seldom will you see a whole brisket in a store, rather the cut is normally divided into two parts, points and flats.

Points are usually priced cheaper than flats, they are irregular in shape, and contain a high content of fatty tissue.  Something to keep in mind is that a four pound point cut will reduce in weight by about 45% after cooking, making the remaining meat actually more expensive than the flat cut.  Points however are known to be a bit more tender than the flat cut due to the high percentage of marbling and fat.

Flats are leaner than their counterpart but are more evenly shaped.  During cooking a four pound flat cut will only reduce by about 15% leaving you with much more product. Properly cooked, flats are tender, delicious,and perfect for slicing.  It is for these reasons I prefer the flat cut.

There are several methods used to cook corned beef.  One of the most common ways is to boil the meat until tender.  I personally do not care for this method.  The reason being is that connective tissues are only broken down by two things, time and temperature, therefore boiling the meat long enough for it to become tender in my opinion results in a piece of meat with the flavor basically boiled out of it.

I prefer a low and slow approach to my brisket, cooking it either in a tightly covered dish like a Dutch oven, or in a crock pot.  The method I will share will work for either however I like to use the crock pot instead of having the oven on for hours and hours.

Begin by allowing the brisket to come up to room temperature, this allows the connective tissues to relax and prepares them for cooking.  Rinse the cut of meat under cool water and pat dry.  Corned beef usually comes with a small packet of pickling seasonings, you can use this or not depending on your personal likes, just watch that you don’t drop it down the drain while rinsing the meat.  I go back and forth on using it or not.

Rough cut a couple of onions and toss them in the bottom of the crock pot or Dutch oven.  The onions will hold the brisket out of the liquid as it cooks.  I added some cabbage only because of the holiday, but normally do not feel the need.  I fill the crock pot about a quarter of the way with the onions.

Place the corned beef “fat cap” up on top of the onion.  Sprinkle with the pickling seasonings (if desired) and some black pepper.  Since corned beef is cured with salt, there is no reason to add any.

Place the lid on the crock pot and set on high for about 1 hour to kick start the project.  I add no additional liquid, as the brisket cooks, the combination of fat and the water content of the onion and cabbage will provide more than enough liquid.  After about one hour, reduce the heat of the crock pot to low and cook for four to five more hours. depending on the size of your brisket.   I threw in some carrots for the last several hours.  The brisket is done when you can easily flake off some meat with a fork.

If you are preparing the brisket in the oven, begin at 425°F for the first hour, then reduce the heat to 275°F for the remaining three to four hours (about an hour per pound).  Internal temperature should reach 185°F. I find testing with a fork for tenderness is the best way to determine if your brisket is done.

Cooks note: When slicing corned beef, be sure to cut across the grain of the meat. This is one of the most important parts to serving tender corned beef!

St Patrick’s Day, the one and only day of the year that everyone who isn’t Irish, pretends to be. But why? I don’t think that the Irish are a protected class and somehow have better lives than the rest of us, or that the “Luck of the Irish” is really extra lucky. So why is it we suddenly start to speak with a thick brogue, and feel compelled to eat corned beef and drink green beer? I guess maybe it’s simply because St.Patrick’s day is associated with fun, probably more fun than most any other special day, and maybe that turns all of us a bit “green”with envy.

Corned beef is actually not an Irish National dish, and it’s connection to St. Patrick’s day is specifically part of the Irish-American culture. Irish corned beef was considered primarily a trade item. During both the Irish Famine, and the Great Potato Famine, raising cattle for production of corned beef to sustain trade crowded out land that would have otherwise been used to raise crops to feed the local population.

The salted or corned brisket was widely used by British naval fleets and North American armies due to its non-perishable quality. Coastal cities in Ireland such as Dublin, Belfast, and Cork, created vast beef curing and packing industries to support the trade. The product was also desired by the French for use in Caribbean sugar plantations as sustenance for the colonist, the slave labor, and for the control of slave population.

There are many methods of cooking corned beef and cabbage. One way is to boil the meat in a pot with cabbage, potatoes, and carrots, however I find the end result to be a tough piece of meat with little flavor.

I prefer to purchase the brisket over the point cut. Adding no liquid, I place the meat in the crock pot on top of a bed of roughly chopped onions and cook covered on low for six to eight hours, depending on the size of the brisket. The combination of the water in the onion and the drippings from the beef create enough moisture to produce a tender piece of meat. Corned beef is very high in sodium so resist the temptation to add more salt. The fibers of the brisket tend to be long. Cutting the meat across the grain is important for best results.

Roasted potatoes and carrots add a nice flavor and texture to this meal. Drizzle some olive oil in the bottom of a baking dish and then turn the vegetables in the oil to evenly coat using your hands. Place the vegetables in a hot oven, 400º F for about an hour, stirring halfway through the cooking time to ensure even roasting. Sprinkle the potatoes and carrots with sea salt and pepper as they come out of the oven. Do not add salt before roasting, it will result in dry food! Salt forces the liquids out of meats and vegetables. Quarter and core the cabbage. Steam the cabbage in a colander placed over a pot of boiling water and covered with a lid.

I like to finish this dish with a parsley and white wine sauce. I make a thin béchamel sauce replacing half of the milk with white wine, and adding chopped parsley, and a squeeze of lemon. This sauce brings a light fresh contrast to the salty taste of the corned beef.

So get your green on and get out there, cause the pipes…… the pipes are calling.

Sláinte!